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Cradle Mountain: A Tasmanian North West Wilderness Adventure

‘Calm days little disclose to the unwary hunter the lurking dangers of these lofty heights, when nature’s unchained forces drive home to man the iron fact that he is nothing but a transient atom in this great universe.’

Gustav Wiendorfer
(Kindred, kate Legge)

Journey to Cradle Mountain

A North west wilderness adventure

September 2024 was a month of celebration and exploration—my birthday month, the arrival of spring, and a chance to embark on a long-awaited road trip to Tasmania’s North West wilderness. Most importantly Cradle Mountain.

Cradle Mountain in Tasmania's north west. Photography by Emma Coombes at the Elm & the Raven
Cradle Mountain in Tasmania’s north west. Photography by Emma Coombes at the Elm & the Raven

I had multiple goals for this adventure: to soak in the changing seasons, gather new photographic material for my upcoming solo exhibition focused on Tasmania’s North West wilderness, and meet with the Cradle Mountain Wilderness Gallery manager to discuss plans for the 2025 show.

It was a trip I’d been dreaming about for a while.

Rainbow illuminates gum tree and green paddocks of Mole Creek. Photography by Emma Coombes at the Elm & the Raven
Rainbow illuminates gum tree and green paddocks of Mole Creek. Photography by Emma Coombes at the Elm & the Raven

The Journey Begins

We set out to see as much as we could. We detoured through stunning spots like Liffey Falls, Devils Gullet, Alum Cliffs and the mysterious Honeycomb Caves. Each destination offered something special—whether it was the charm of a hidden waterfall or the dramatic cliffs overlooking mist-filled valleys.


The trip was a six-day road adventure, starting with a drive through the Central Highlands, a visit to Liffey Falls, and an overnight stay in Mole Creek. We explored the surrounding area, including the Alum Cliffs, Honeycomb Caves, Devil’s Gullet and a walk through the Mersey Forest.


The landscape felt like a glimpse into another world—dense forests and dramatic cliffs paired with rushing water and underground caves.

In the Field in the Mersey Forest. Capturing a magnificent old tree in the flooded banks of the Upper Mersey River.

Approaching Cradle Mountain

Cradle Mountain itself felt like another world. The mix of snow-capped peaks and moody weather provided the perfect backdrop for photography. We faced rain, wind, and fog throughout, but there’s something about those wild conditions that add depth to the landscape—and, for me, inspiration. With proper gear to keep us warm and dry, we embraced every walk, every view, and every shift in the weather.

We were lucky to escape the worst of it. The week before had seen an immense power out across Tasmania and the North West was particularly impacted. Locals had faced power outages and road closures, and signs of the cleanup clear with cut trees and chainsaw activity visible on every road. 

The constant downpour didn’t make things easy for my camera gear either. I lost a lens cap on the first day and spent much of the trip juggling between taking shots and protecting my camera and lenses from the rain. Yet, through all the challenges, I captured moments I can’t wait to share with you all.


The charm of Spring

Cradle Mountain colour

Tasmania’s weather in September is unpredictable. Springtime in the wilderness offers vibrant, almost surreal beauty. Button grass and alpine flowers dotted the landscape with bursts of colour, their vivid hues contrasting with the moody skies above. It was a photographer’s dream, with every scene offering a new perspective to capture.


Day Hikes in Wild Weather

The hikes at Cradle Mountain were a mix of old memories and new discoveries. We experienced a slow start as complications with road access and running buses impeded our access to the park from the visitor centre. However, we handled it well and enjoyed a leisurely morning and an early lunch at the Cradle Mountain Hotel


With the buses back on schedule, we set out on our first walk. To get off at Ronny Creek carpark, visit Waldheim, the Weindorfers Forest and, of course, all the lovely healthy wombats that inhabit the area. From there, we headed to Lake Lilla. 


Reunion with an Old Friend

I also had a heartwarming reunion in a familiar place. We took a detour to the Wombat Pool and there, floating in the waters, was the driftwood ‘stag’ I had photographed back in 2013. This old friend had inspired a piece in my Deadwood collection. It felt like fate had led us back together—a perfect reminder of why I love this landscape so much.


Back at Dove Lake, we took a quick visit to the boat shed before catching the last bus back to the visitor centre to get warm and dry.

Day 2 at Cradle Mountain

The second day we might have been overambitious and perhaps it was merely a reflection of our fitness levels. The walk took about 8 hours. I must remember to factor extra time for all the photography I do in between. It’s something that slows me down and annoys Lachlan, my long suffering tripod carrying partner. 


The trail never seemed to get easier, one descent leading to another climb and then the next. But the breathtaking scenery made up for the aching muscles. Water flowed over the track, drenching our shoes. But back in the cabin, everything drying by the fire, those minor discomforts faded, replaced by the satisfaction of a day well spent in the wild.


Those Gorgeous Pink Robins

And then there are the pink robins. I’m always attempting to photograph this charming bird, and I only seem to encounter them at Cradle Mountain. This time, I spotted two of them. Even though I didn’t have the perfect lens with me for bird photography, I was happy to get a few shots.


2025 Solo Show at the Cradle mountain Wilderness Gallery:

A Dream Come True

One of the key reasons for this trip was to visit the Cradle Mountain Wilderness Gallery, where I’ll be exhibiting in 2025. The gallery is a sanctuary for Tasmanian wilderness photography, including works by Peter Dombrovskis. Walking through the space, surrounded by his stunning images, I was humbled, and delighted, knowing that my work will soon hang in the same space.


We visited the gallery twice. On our first visit, the heating was off after the recent wild weather. The room was a bit cool, making us huddle in our coats as we admired the exhibits.

On our second visit, with power restored, the gallery radiated warmth and charm, a match to Brogan, the gallery manager.


Our Descent from cradle Mountain

the last leg to Queenstown

After Cradle Mountain, we continued our journey through Queenstown for our last night.


Despite our plans for a walk cut short by track closures, we enjoyed wandering the quirky town. We explored its art déco Paragon Theatre, and marvelled at the remote beauty of the West Coast.


Cradle Mountain Reflections

Though the weather was often a battle, this trip reminded me why I’m drawn to these rugged places. There’s a wild, untamed energy here that pulls you in, even when the elements are working against you. I’m reminded of why Tasmania’s wilderness continually inspires my work. The landscape is alive, unpredictable, and rich with stories waiting to be told. Each hike, each photo, and conversation with the land left a mark on me, reaffirming the importance of preserving these wild places. 


My 2025 exhibition at the Cradle Mountain Wilderness Gallery feels like the culmination of my connection with this region—both a dream realised and a new beginning.

I can’t wait to share these experiences and images with you and hope they resonate with the same sense of wonder and reverence I felt standing in this impressive wilderness landscape.

Emma, the Elm & the Raven

September 22, 2024

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4 Comments

  1. kerri coombes

    So enjoyed reading of your adventure to Cradle Mountain. Beautiful place to visit but certainly a challenge on the body. The gallery very clean and spacious an advantage for showing your works. Look forward to hearing more.

    Reply
    • Emma

      Thank you. I’m glad you enjoyed reading about it as much as I enjoyed being there. 🙂

      Reply
  2. Catherine McDowell

    Another beautiful journey – I have visited Cradle mountain but nothing so glorious as how it has been captured by my very talented friend . I would love to come ad see the exhibition!

    Reply
    • Emma

      Thank you Cath! and I would like nothing more than to see you if you do! 🙂

      Reply

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